Roman baths at Banos de la Hedionda |
The Coronavirus pandemic has certainly affected all our lives, but the enforced lockdown for many of us is beginning to change the way we think and our attitudes to life, it's time to slow down and take stock of our lives while we remain safe in our homes.
I was thinking about our epic trip across Europe last year, it was a pretty amazing trip and I discovered I have a penchant for hot water springs, we discovered a number of them in our time away and they were all different.
The Roman baths at Banos de la Hedionda in Spain were built in 61BC. Julius Caesar's legions were camped and ready to attack Pompey's troops. Everything was ready for battle, but the scabies reduced the attention of the Roman soldiers. Apparently there was no possible relief. Unrest was mounting, the camp was settled by a river of aquamarine water that gave off an unpleasant odour of rotten eggs but the warriors discovered how their itching decreased after washing in these waters, this is how the healing properties of the sulfurous waters of these baths were discovered. According to history, the Emperor himself ordered the construction of the thermal baths having cured himself of a herpatic disease after bathing in the waters. Amazingly the Roman construction is still evident despite very little intervention over time. The water remains at a steady 18'c which feels cooler than other natural spas we visited. The site has no entry charge and is reached by a dusty track away from the hustle bustle of the Costa del sol.
The Gorge at Alhama de Granada |
The main spa area is located inside the hotel and was constructed by the moors, once again the Romans used the hot springs but the Arabs consolidated the town and built the Thermal baths there in the 15th century. Travelling in southern Spain we have often seen how evidence of the power struggles between the Spanish and the invading Arabs, so much of their culture and architecture is a conglomeration of the two civilisations.
Back in May when we were touring the Peloponnese in Greece we discovered the hot sulphur springs at Thermopylae. Located nearby is the site of an infamous battle between the Spartans (Greek) forces and invading Persian forces in 480BC. The Spartans were greatly outnumbered, but fought a brave battle over three days, they were eventually defeated when one of their own men betrayed them and told the Persians of a secret goat path allowing the enemy to sneak around and attack them from behind. The jubilant Persian warriors no doubt celebrated by indulging in the healing hot water (40'c). When we visited we were able to park the Moho nearby and next to the entrance a local guy had set up a stall selling produce. He also acted as an unofficial guide informing us how to proceed when entering the hot water - that is SLOWLY!
You need time to allow your body to adjust to the heat and the maximum time you can tolerate it was about twenty minutes. The smell of the sulphur is very strong and some people arriving were clearly put off by the stench of bad eggs! After showering in clean water your skin feels incredibly soft and smooth, the healing waters leaving you feeling laid-back and relaxed.
A short walk away from the spa is the remains of the ancient town of Heraclea Sintica, built in the fourth century BC by the Ancient Greek Philip II who was the father of Alexander the Great.
We were able to stay a couple of days right next to the spa and were able to explore the surrounding area as well as indulging in the relaxing waters.
Maybe sitting in a pond of hot, green muddy water is not for everyone, but it certainly was an experience not to be forgotten.
The steaming waters of the Spa waters at Rupite Bulgaria |
Whilst we are all in the Coronavirus lockdown
none of us can tell when we will be able to travel to distant shores again. Everything that's happening feels like a bad dream as we teeter on the edge of reality, but we all need to find ways to tame our worrying minds in these difficult times.
Just remember happier times and look forward to a time when all this has passed, we can resume our lives and our travels.
Until then its a hot bath with a bath bomb for me, if I shut my eyes tight I might just imagine myself back there!!