A trip to the guns that never fired a shot.........

Sunset on the bay of La Azohia

Our next wild camping stop was  on a stunning bay at La Azohia where we joined a few other motorhomers right on the stoney beach overlooked by another Moorish defence tower. 

 It was an idyllic position but quite popular with the motorhomers which has resulted in the residents being a bit disgruntled at the constant use of the water tap on the beach. 
Nevertheless, we stayed in the end for four nights, enjoying cycling along the seafront and the highlight being a cycle ride up the mountain to the massive defence area for the port of Carthenega.

 Built between 1929 and 1933 it never saw active service

Six massive guns still left high on the mountain

 

 

It seems the architects couldn't help themselves and created a rather Disneyesque style of fortress

Cartridge cases strategically placed as benches

These massive guns had a firing range of 35 km

It was a massive climb but well worth the effort!!

On the way we got chatting to a lovely couple Andy and Maureen who we met the next day for coffee

A perfect day for visiting such a fascinating place!

Tootling about in Totana.....

The best pitch in the Camperstop (we think!)

We settled into Camperstop Sierra Espuna at Totana staying for five nights (not the three nights we originally intended) cycling along the canal path both ways and also cycling up to the hilltop monastery de La Santa, now converted to an hotel. 

The monastery church is still preserved with its unusual painted walls depicting not only the twelve stations of the cross, but medieval scenes - I don't know whose head was served up on a platter in this photo!

Distant view of the town of Aledo

A short distance from the monastery is the town of Aledo, perched on the hillside and dominated by the thirteenth century Moorish defence tower, interestingly the tower was built on the remains of a coral reef from 7 million years ago when this area was under the sea - difficult to visualise when we are almost 2000ft above sea level!

The views of the surrounding countryside were magnificent and the downhill cycle ride back to the site exhilarating!

The view from Aledo tower

Back on site we met Frank and Janet with their four dogs, they were having a week or so away in their motorhome before returning to their Spanish home in Rojales not far from Alicante. We shared a drink one evening sitting out until 10 o'clock when we all started to feel a bit damp and chilly! They invited us to visit them on our return journey up the coast of Spain and we might just do that.

Sunrise from our motorhome on Sunday morning

We also met David who was able to give us quite a bit of information on some places we could wild camp on our journey south down the coast, in fact the next place we went to on Saturday was Punta Brava a small resort on the bay of Mar Menor (literally 'small sea') where we camped up by the promenade and enjoyed stunning views across the bay for a couple of days and some easy cycling along the beachfront.

Flamingos just 100yds from our motorhome

 

It was a lovely spot for a few days but time again to  continue our journey south and pastures new!

Further adventures in the Sierra Espuna...

After our strenuous day climbing mountains on our bikes we had an easy day on Friday, did some washing in the campsite washing machine, went to the local shops to buy bacon and baguette for lunch, sat about in the sun and had only an hours local walk, finally to end a lovely day we went for a meal in the next door restaurant and had an excellent meal.

'Devils chorizo' Fiery little sausages sizzling in their dish!

Pliego - the view from the hill on the way home

We were back on our bikes on Saturday for a trip out to the town of Pliego about 14 miles from the site and it would have been an easier day for cycling but for a strong headwind on our return. When we got back to the site we had been invaded by the weekender Spanish families, they were having a party on the road right by our van, one thing about staying in Spain is you need to be tolerant of their noisy get-togethers! It's best to avoid the campsites at weekends if you like peace and quiet.

The view across to Gebas - our destination

For our last day at El Berro we did a circular seven mile walk to the village of Gebas and back. The walk, like many of the other walks in this area provided some spectacular views, but always at the cost of a few steep hills! This walk was made more interesting by the route taking us through the channel of a dried up river bed and a tunnel which we later learned was man made but never used. Keith also disturbed a snake - it crossed our path and slithered into the undergrowth so we don't know what kind of snake it was! 

The dried up riverbed

To finish our week at El Berro we went to the restaurant again for our evening meal, this time we had the weekend special of a three course meal with a drink for 14€ each - can't be bad! To anybody who might be going to El Berro we would definitely recommend the Sierra Espuna restaurant next to the campsite, I think we had the best meals there that we've had in Spain.

Approaching the village of El Berro on our walk

 Monday morning and we were on the road again, detouring to a supermarket to stock up, our next destination was Camperstop Sierra Espuna about two miles north of Totana, located on the outskirts of the National park and right on the canal path it gave us another opportunity to continue exploring this lovely area but from a different base.

We got the best pitch at Camperstop Sierra Espuna!

 The camperstop itself was idyllic with fabulous views to the far distant hills all around and set in a peaceful area. Here we met up with Colin and Sandra - full time motorhomers who we 'met' on our forum Motorhome Fun - an online community of motorhomers from all walks of life and doing all sorts of different travelling. It's a great way to communicate with like minded people and to gather information on any aspect of motorhoming. Colin was a great help to us advising on our prospective solar panel - another job for when we get back to the UK.

The canal path

 So with the weather set fair (blue skies, sunshine and hot) we settled in for another few days exploring the area.

Adventures in Sierra Espuna National Park....

We arrived at Camping Sierra Espuna - El Berro and pitched up in time for a local walk in the afternoon, dodging a few scanty rain showers, but then the rain began and lasted for thirty hours - for the whole of Tuesday we were stuck inside the van and very glad of the free wifi on the site. But the one thing about the weather in Spain at this time of year is that is doesn't usually last for long and soon the skies will clear and the sun will shine again. 

True to form on Wednesday we were able to go out into the Sierra Espuna National Park and enjoy one of the marked walking routes, stopping for a picnic en route and only managing to get lost once!

Still looking quite fresh....

On Thursday we decided to have a cycle ride to the local town of Alhama de Murcia stopping at the village of Gebas for coffee, it was a bit worrying that the whole route to the town was virtually all downhill!

Stopping for a drink on the way up!

We had picnic lunch in a quiet spot in town after visiting the Tourist information then headed back to the campsite through the National Park.

Not so long ago we were down in that valley!

We cycled uphill for over six miles with an elevation of over 2000ft - Phew! Very hard work, by the time we got back to the campsite we were shattered!

Keith looking a bit knackered!

But the views and the scenery were fabulous and made it all worthwhile.

 Needless to say the next day we took it easy - we did some washing, had a bacon baguette for lunch then had an hours' walk around the village of El Berro, this is the only photo i took on our walk - very remiss of me!

Almonds - not ready for picking yet!

Exploring the old town of Mula...

On Sunday we decided to give our bikes a day off and walk around the old town and up to the castle, our UK 'neighbours' on the Aire had given us a tourist map so after breakfast we set off exploring and discovered that Mula has many interesting old buildings, streets and a lovely town square.

We climbed the winding streets up towards the castle but were unable to make it all the way as the path became rather too steep and dangerous as you approached the rocky crag on which the castle is perched. There were some spectacular views along the way.

We found that we had just missed the 'Night of the drums' on the Tuesday after Easter. Starting at midnight the whole population of the town gather at the town square and in a magnificent procession they beat their drums all night long, a tradition that has been held for hundreds of years. At first we thought it was an event best avoided but then decided it was probably pretty spectacular and decided that we might just try and get to see this event next year if we are touring Spain.

Keith tries the mini-burger Tapas, not quite the Big Mac he was expecting

The other event happening in the town for April was Ruta de Tapa - many of the local bars and restaurants create a small selection of their signature Tapas which you can try for just 2.50€ including a drink. After you have tried the Tapas you have a booklet on which to give the venue a score and at the end of April the winner is announced. Being Sunday lunchtime we had hoped to find a restaurant doing a Menu del Dia (Menu of the day) but this event had rather taken over so we were unlucky in that respect.

We went back to the van and I knocked up another of my Motorhome specials - Spanish omelette. It's funny how while we're away touring our diet is quite different from what we have at home - one reason is cooking food quickly and easily becomes a priority but also we often buy much better fruit and veg than we can buy back at home so we eat more seasonal veg and salad. When we are hooked up to the electric I use a Slow cooker to make a meal which will last a few days, there's nothing better than coming back to the van after a long cycle ride and the dinner is there already cooked and smelling delicious! When the weather is good Keith cooks on our mini gas cooker outside, we have griddled marinaded pork or turkey steaks and veg, it's much more fun to cook outside whilst sipping a beer!
We enjoyed our stay at the Aire in Mula and would recommend it to anyone touring the area - it has the necessary facilities but is spacious and quiet and of course it's free, we don't normally spend as long as four nights on an Aire but with its interesting town and close proximity to the Via Verde we weren't disappointed.

The view from Mula Aire

Monday morning and after a visit to the local supermarket to stock up it's time to move on again. For our next destination we stay inland and head to the ACSI site Camping Sierra Espuna on the edge of the National Park at El Berro.

Cycling on the moon....

After a peaceful night on the Aire in Mula, we headed off on our bikes to cycle on the Via Verde in the other direction - towards Murcia. Once the trail left the town we headed out into what's known as the Badlands - the surrounding terrain like a lunar landscape. 

Even so there were small towns along our route for us to get our cup of coffee and sit and take in the Spanish atmosphere, one cafe was called the Via Verde Bar!

The trail turned from tarmac to rough gravel track so we were glad of our trail bikes with shock absorbers as we bumped our way up and down a few hills. We had more company on the trail probably because it was Saturday, we even met another English couple doing the same as us and staying in their motorhome on the Aire. 

We both really liked the wide open spaces of the terrain and agreed that this Via Verde was one of our favourites for scenery. 

So, just a short blog for today, we're on a campsite with Internet just now so I'll be back soon!

Murcia to Mula

A rather large fish in the river at Murcia

We stayed at Camperpark Huerta de Murcia for four days in the end enjoying the relatively peaceful surroundings (you're never too far from a barking dog in Spain) and the cycle path alongside the river. 

Arriving back on site one day an English couple had parked their motorhome next to ours, we soon got chatting and Mick had caught his head on the edge of his window and had a nasty gash - I'll have a look at it, I say, so out comes our First aid kit and one pack of steristrips later and it's fixed! Now what are the chances of lacerating your head and parking next to a nurse in the middle of Spain??? If you're reading this Mick I hope it healed well after my ministrations!
And as a postscript a few days later whilst out walking in the town we assisted with a young man having an epileptic fit in the street until the ambulance arrived, no-one around knew what to do so together Keith and I took charge and kept him safe until the fit was over. Another good deed for the day!!

During our stay we also discovered an unusual pigeon sport, the birds are kept in boxes, their feathers coloured with food dye for identification, trained to go to a female pigeon with a white tail feather then at competition time the male bird who stays with that single female the longest is the winner. Weird!!

We were back on the road on Thursday, our destination being Mula - an inland town on the Via Verde del Noroeste, the old railway line that used to link Murcia with Caravaca. As is often the case, there is a motorhome 'Aire' on the edge of the town where we parked up. The town itself is dominated by an ancient 16th century castle set up high on the mountainside the town buildings and houses seeming to tumble down the hillside, the modern buildings and apartment blocks right at the bottom. Joining us on the Aire that night were other motorhomes from France, Spain, Switzerland, Belgium and Holland, we always wonder what they're doing staying in these towns off the beaten track.

Friday morning and although the sun was shining there was a strong gusty wind blowing - not the best cycling weather! Nevertheless we set out to embark on the Via Verde deal Noroeste, leaving the town on rural tracks rather than the old line as it was lost to the new road. The way was steep in places made even more difficult with the strong wind, but the views made up for it. Eventually we were cycling on the old line, the incline was more steady but it was uphill all the way to Bulla - our destination 14 miles from Mula.

After slogging up to the town of Bulla we had our picnic lunch sitting on a convenient bench then turned around and headed back, being treated to stunning views across the arid countryside, the mountains of the Sierre Espuna in the background, the orange and lemon groves of the valley replaced now with grapevines, almond and olive trees growing in the sandy white soil.
We were out all day and only saw on the way a group of young walkers and one other couple walking - no other cyclists at all, we more or less had the trail to ourselves, where else would you be able to find that?